Lace making, a door-to-door trade and the sale of lace as a livelihood developed across the Upper Pohronie region from the turn of the 17th and 18th centuries, particularly after the decline of mining in the latter half of the 18th century. Although this occupation ceased to exist by the mid-20th century, the culinary tradition has endured—families, especially those with a lace-making heritage, still enjoy preparing the dish today.
The tradition of cooking čipkárskô remains alive in the region, especially during family celebrations, trips, and social events. In 1999, the municipality of Brusno organised the inaugural edition of what has become a popular competition in čipkárskô cooking. This event has also promoted newly produced cookware designed explicitly for preparing čipkárskô.
The cookware is a cylindrical sheet metal container with a base or feet. Beneath the bottom, a small fireplace is created, where pieces of wood, charcoal, or cones are placed through a central chimney in the middle of the container. The container is covered with a lid featuring a round chimney opening in the centre.
The cooking process begins with boiling meat, which is cut into pieces—typically mutton, beef, or sometimes pork—in water with spices and onions. Later, chopped root vegetables are added, and before finishing, the soup is thickened with potatoes and handmade pasta called trhance, also known as tlapky or čipkárky. The pasta however must be dried before cooking to prevent it from sticking together.
The dish is traditionally served in two courses: the hustô, consisting of the drained meat, vegetables, pasta, and potatoes, which is eaten separately, and the second course is the thin broth.
The unique method of preparing čipkárskô in simple yet sophisticated portable kettles by male lace makers during business trips has been passed down from generation to generation, fostering a strong sense of identity and connection to the local history. This tradition complements the picture of the identity of the people from Brusno and the surrounding region. It is also related to other expressions of traditional folk culture, such as singing, dancing, and motúziarčina (or “twine language”)—the secret language of lace makers.
